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Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing enormous gilded pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Kids play in a stone basin pretending to be mermaids, while adjacent resides a chatting legume in a exhibition box, next to a imposing mound of bedding. It represents the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading nineteenth-century's widely adored storytellers. I find myself in this Danish town, located on the island of Fyn in the southern part of this Nordic country, to investigate the writer's enduring legacy in his native city a century and a half after his demise, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Museum: The Andersen Museum

Andersen's House is the city’s cultural center dedicated to the writer, including his first home. An expert explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. Andersen's biography was examined, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For guests who visit this place in search of narrative enchantment, it was a little lacking.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, rerouting a major road, created the chance to reimagine how the renowned native could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the structure. The distinctive wood-paneled museum with interlinked spiralling spaces launched to great fanfare in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we don’t talk about the writer, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with wit, satire and perspective,” says the representative. The outdoor spaces embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for large beings, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he says, an objective accomplished by clever planting, manipulating height, scale and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Author's Influence

He authored two and a half memoirs and frequently contradicted himself. The exhibition takes this approach to heart; often the perspectives of his friends or excerpts of written messages are displayed to politely doubt the author’s own version of happenings. “The writer is the storyteller, but his account isn't always accurate,” notes the expert. The outcome is a fascinating whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and creations, mental approaches and most popular tales. This is provocative and fun, for adults and kids, with a extra basement make-believe land, the pretend town, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the physical town, the small city of this Danish city is delightful, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes finished in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the street signals show the storyteller with his signature characteristic hat, metal shoe prints give a free guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this dedication peaks with the yearly Andersen celebration, which celebrates the author’s legacy through art, dance, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the multi-day event had 500 shows, most of which were complimentary. During my time in this place, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator telling stories. I listen to empowering poetry and see an amazing nocturnal display with graceful performers coming down from the municipal structure and suspended from a crane. Still to come in the coming months are presentations, creative sessions for all ages and, expanding the storytelling legacy further than the writer, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

All good magical places need a palace, and Fyn features numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area

Pedaling Through History

As in much of the country, cycles are the best way to get about in Odense and a “cycling highway” curves through the downtown area. Starting at the local hotel, I cycle to the public waterside bathing area, then out of town for a loop around Stige Ø, a compact territory connected by causeway to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or enjoy a peaceful time catching fish, aquatic activities or bathing.

Returning to the city, I dine at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is based on the writer's motifs and narratives. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted at the restaurant, and owner the host recites passages, translated into English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience commonplace in my days in the city, the local residents love a yarn and it seems that sharing tales is continuously offered here.

Manor House Visits

All good fairytale destinations deserve a fortress, and Fyn features over a hundred manors and manor houses across the island. Going on excursions from town, I visit Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, the princess. I wonder if she might sense a pea through a mound of {mattresses